I had a lot of down time that year. It was not in the sense of having no pressing obligations, but of being indisposed and thus unable to fulfill obligations. My body had decided there would be no more pushing through. It seemed to realize that there has been a lot of work in therapy around personal awareness, and it was not going to let my mind off the hook anymore.
The necessary stillness was extremely distressing at times, so I focused on ways to occupy myself gently. Slowly I have been working toward a new pace of living with chronic illness without losing a sense of who I am. So while my cello sits undisturbed on its stand, I can mess around on the guitar for short periods of time and still lean back against the bed cushions. On the days when sitting up at my desk or my sewing machine feels overwhelming, there is calm in the rhythm of slow stitching and listening to books. But typing, needlework, and fingerpicking are set aside when arthritis flares up and takes away what has been a lifelong coping tool – doing something with my hands. If I am not feeling too frustrated with painful fingers and bed rest, Pinterest and YouTube can still entertain me with minimal effort.
Thus I had collected information in a number of sewing techniques that fascinated me, and I decided to try them all on one garment. It started with the disappearing lapel, designed by Tomoko Nakamichi, somehow folded and stitched from a single piece of fabric. I also wanted to do inseam buttonholes, shaped welted pockets, an underlining, Hong Kong seam finishes and embroidered covered buttons – all things I had never tried. I considered tabbed buttonholes as well, but later decided to save that for another project. I drew up a dress and jacket design and started drafting the pattern pieces.
It took me some time to figure out the source of the lapel design, so I spent a lot of time sketching and analyzing, then cutting out and folding miniature patterns to try and figure out what she did. I then drafted the full sized version and made a muslin, making notes for myself as I did. To my surprise, it worked! It was after my project was complete that I was able to discover her name, page through her books and be intrigued at her origami inspired designs.
For the dress bodice I worked off of a dress pattern from Bootstrap Fashions that I have used several times. The back zipper is replaced with a button up front. The welted pockets went on the bodice of the dress and I added a half circle skirt at the dropped waistline.
The gray plaid wool suiting has been in my possession for years and there was just barely enough. The light green underlining on the dress and jacket is a cotton Indian block print. I made my own bias tape from cotton for the seam finish. The jacket buttons are made from a piece of ultra suede from my scrap bin, appliquéd with bits of lace trim and stitched over clear acrylic buttons. Standard shell buttons close the dress front.
It took me over a year to complete this project due to compounding health issues and the opportunity to support my friend who started a quilt design business. Finally it seemed it was complete. I have worn it several times and enjoyed compliments each time I out it on, but there is something not quite right in the fit. I could feel it, but had trouble identifying what was off. Then I made a dress form – the first I have ever used. This morning I put my origami suit on the dress form and I could see exactly what needed to change. After pinching and pinning in the quiet morning light I took some photos. This is the dress and jacket that taught me a great deal, and no doubt has more lessons in store as I work through the alterations.
Please Share a Thought